＜prologue＞
I started a blog called “The Baby Boomer Generation’s Miscellaneous Blog”（Dankai-sedai no garakutatyou:団塊世代の我楽多（がらくた）帳） in July 2018, about a year before I fully retired. More than six years have passed since then, and the number of articles has increased considerably.
So, in order to make them accessible to people who don’t understand Japanese, I decided to translate my past articles into English and publish them.
It may sound a bit exaggerated, but I would like to make this my life’s work.
It should be noted that haiku and waka （Japanese short fixed form poems） are quite difficult to translate into English, so some parts are written in Japanese.
If you are interested in haiku or waka and would like to know more, please read introductory or specialized books on haiku or waka written in English.
I also write many articles about the Japanese language. I would be happy if these inspire more people to want to learn Japanese.
my blog’s URL:団塊世代の我楽多（がらくた）帳 | 団塊世代が雑学や面白い話を発信しています
my X’s URL:団塊世代の我楽多帳（@historia49）さん / X
The rainy season is finally upon us, making this the perfect time to go firefly watching. Bring your family and let the light of the fireflies soothe you. Children who are tired from the coronavirus pandemic will surely be delighted to experience the wonders of nature.
You’ll also be able to hear the beautiful croaking of the Japanese bush frog. Watching the lights of the fireflies flicker in the darkness and listening to their calls will somehow cleanse your soul, transporting you to a mysterious world.
This time, I’d like to introduce some firefly-viewing spots in Settsukyo Gorge, my hometown of Takatsuki City.
1. Firefly-Viewing Spots in Settsukyo Gorge
In Takatsuki City, you can see Genji fireflies at rivers like the Akutagawa River and the Hiogawa River. However, Settsukyo Gorge, located upstream of the Akutagawa River, is relatively easy to access and has a parking lot, making it a great place to enjoy firefly viewing.
(1) Route heading upstream from Settsukyo Shimonokuchi Parking Lot (or Tsukawaki Bus Stop).
This is the most accessible and recommended route for seeing many fireflies. The mountain towering on the right as you head upstream is Mount Miyoshi, the site of Akutagawayama Castle, the residence of Miyoshi Nagayoshi, the first ruler of the Sengoku period.
You can enjoy a leisurely view of the fireflies from Sansuikan to Shirataki. A short distance from Sansuikan, you’ll see Yamaguchi Seishi’s “Firefly Haiku Monument” (*) on your left.
(*) What is the “Firefly Haiku Monument”?
Settsukyo Gorge is a valley stretching from the middle to upper reaches of the Akutagawa River, which flows north and south through Takatsuki City. It stretches for approximately 3 km and features a variety of seasonally expressive landscapes, including strange rock formations, cliffs, waterfalls, cherry blossoms, and autumn leaves. It is also known as “Settsu Yabakei” after Yabakei, one of Japan’s three most scenic spots, located in Oita Prefecture.
When I was a child, it was simply called “Yabakei.”
I once walked upstream from the “Shimoguchi” (lower entrance), where Kajikaso (now closed) and Sakura Park are located, to the “Kamiguchi” (upper entrance), along narrow riverside paths and rocky areas. Along the way, just past the hot spring inn “Sansuikan,” you’ll find the following “Firefly Haiku Monument” by Seishi Yamaguchi:
“Floating fireflies fly away from the water on their own.”
(2) From the Settsukyo Kamiguchi bus stop, cross the Settsukyo Bridge and head downstream of the Settsukyo Gorge.
This is the opposite of (1), going from upstream to downstream along the right bank.
You can also descend from the Settsukyo Bridge (circled in red on the map above) and continue along the riverside path (red line on the map above), but please be aware that the uneven ground due to the large and small rocks can make the walk difficult. You’ll also need to climb back up to the upper path after a certain point.
The recommended route is to cross the Settsukyo Bridge, continue further in, pass Keijuin Temple, descend the slope, and follow the narrow riverside path to see fireflies flying above the water.
(3) Route from Tsukawaki Bridge in Settsukyo to the Akutagawa Shimizu Greenway on the right bank of the Akutagawa River
This route, unlike routes (1) and (2), is a gentle, downstream strolling path that passes through the Settsukyo Gorge. It heads south toward Aquapia Akutagawa and ends at Nishinokawahara Bridge.
Here, too, during peak season, you can see fireflies flashing in the grass and swarming across the water’s surface. However, there are fewer fireflies on this route than on routes (1) and (2).
2. Best Time and Best Time to See Fireflies
The best time to see fireflies in Settsukyo Gorge, Takatsuki City, is early to mid-June.
Firefly lights are generally visible during three fixed times: 8:00 PM to 9:00 PM, 11:00 PM, and 2:00 AM. I recommend the best time to see them: 8:00 PM to 9:00 PM, as they don’t run into the middle of the night. After 10:00 PM, the number of buses decreases, and at Kamiguchi Station, the last bus departs around 10:30 PM. (At Tsukawaki Station, the last bus departs around 9:00 PM.)
3. Recommended Conditions for Seeing Fireflies (Weather)
Fireflies fly best on humid, cloudy days. However, they can also be seen on sunny days. However, they are less visible on windy or rainy days.
4. Firefly Viewing Precautions
Please note that capturing fireflies is prohibited in Takatsuki City. The riverside path is dark, so you’ll need a small flashlight to illuminate your path. However, fireflies do not tolerate bright light, so do not shine a flashlight directly on them.
5. Access to Settsukyo Gorge
(1) Access by Car
① Settsukyo Shimonokuchi Parking Lot
During “Firefly Season” from Saturday, May 30th to Sunday, June 21st, 2020, parking is available for a special fee of ¥500 from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM (accommodates 160 standard-sized vehicles).
② Settsukyo Kaminokuchi Parking Lot
This is a “trout fishing parking lot.” It is open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM and costs ¥1,000. (Accommodates 30 standard-sized vehicles).
However, when I went there around 8:00 PM, there was no manager there, and several cars were parked there, likely for firefly viewing. Also, across the Settsukyo Bridge, in front of Keijuin Temple, there were several cars parked there, likely for firefly viewing.
In any case, please be careful not to cause any inconvenience to local residents.
(2) Access by Bus
While buses run frequently between Kaminokuchi and JR Takatsuki Station North, buses between Tsukawaki and JR Takatsuki Station North run infrequently, with the last bus arriving around 9 PM, making it inconvenient. If you’re traveling by bus, we recommend going to Kaminokuchi and taking route 1. (2) to view the fireflies.
6. Himebotaru（Himefireflies） at Shinkawa (Best time to see them: early to late May)
The Settsu Gorge firefly is an aquatic firefly whose larvae spend their time in the river preying on Japanese river snails. They can be seen from early to mid-June.
Genji firefly eggs are laid on moss growing on trees and stones along the riverbank. The larvae quickly enter the river.
The Shinkawa firefly, on the other hand, is a terrestrial larvae that prey on land snails and other land snails. They emerge from their cocoons in early to late May.
The Shinkawa fireflies grow on the banks of the Shinkawa River, a tributary of the Akutagawa River (the slope of the eastern bank where there is a row of cherry trees southeast of Jyosai Bridge), and people working to protect the fireflies record the number of fireflies that appear every night during the season.
For several years, I would ride my bike to observe them every night around 9pm at this time of year. While Genji fireflies have a cold yellow-white light, Hime fireflies have an orange light similar to the flashing light of a camera flash, and they shine “flash, flash.” It’s like natural illumination has been created on the bank.
If you’re interested, I recommend you go and see them.
Please note that currently, capturing all fireflies, including Genji fireflies, Hime fireflies, and Heike fireflies, is prohibited in Takatsuki City.